A peek into the earliest history

  The train hooted while running through the large lands of coconut plantations, small towns and green carpets of paddy fields. The earth was being kissed by the morning sun rays. It was our 2^nd year end vacation on mid February 2013. We – me myself, Harshi and Kali – had got into the train from Thummodara and were heading towards the Chilaw station. Our minds filled with curiosity and enthusiasm about the upcoming adventurous journey.  After passing about seven stations, we finally reached Chilaw. We got out from the station, walked towards the bus stand and took a bus heading towards Anamaduwa. We were to meet Subhash on the way.  He got into the bus from Pallama, and from here onward there were four members in our small travelling group. The bus drove through small villages which had houses located far from each other. They were mostly separated by large paddy fields, beautiful lakes or vast lands which looked like forests. The bus drove very slowly that at some point we had the impression that we could even walk on foot and pass it. It took about an hour to reach Anamaduwa, where two other people were awaiting to join our little gang. Randika, one of our beloved batch mates and his brother were on motor cycles waiting to proceed the rest of the journey. It was a sunny day and the atmosphere was dry. As the hot sun touched our skin, the bodies felt the different environment of the intermediate dry zone. We rode by bikes – three in one – towards Paramakanda, which was our first destination. According to the sign board displayed at the middle of the town, it was a 2.4km ride from Anamaduwa along the Vihara Mawatha road to reach the "Paramakanda Rajamaha Viharaya".

On the way

On the way

  After riding for about 1km, in front of us we could see a large solid rock balancing on top of another. This was our destination – the Paramakanda rock. Another 1.4km and we were at the gate of the ancient temple. Paramakanda Viharaya is said to be built by Mahathissa Thero during King Walagamba’s( 89-77 BC ) time. There were several historical buildings including the House of Images (Budugey), a "Sthupa", a "Gantara" (Bell) Tower and a rock inscription written in "Brahmin" letters. The whole temple area was aligned with the gigantic rock which we saw on our way. The "Gantara Tower" stood majestically leaning to the rock. It’s ancient architecture increased the temple’s archaeological value. Standing elegantly next to the tower was a milky white small "Sthupa", apparently renovated. Next to it was the "Budugey". It’s roof was constructed according to the ancient style and the door was made of thick wood. Inside it there were paintings and sculptures of Lord Buddha and various ancient Buddhist stories. The painting style resembled the ones in the Kandy era. On another side of the temple stood a Bo tree vastly spreading its branches over the area. By it’s side lay a stone inscription. However, the meaning of the inscription was not indicated at that moment.

The Gantara Tower

The Budugey

The Sthupa

  After spending a quality time at the temple, we headed towards the staircase made of stone which was located at the other end of the site. The stairs resembled a gateway into the historical era of Sri Lanka. Rocks and forest like lands consisting of bushes and slim trees were on either sides of the staircase. At some places the rocks were very steep that the stairs were somewhat high thus we had to make a certain effort to climb them. Panting, but with curiosity we climbed around 150 steps and reached the top. The view was magnificent. A vast area of land could be seen below us. The tree tops lifted up from the greenish carpet of land and paddy fields, surrounded large natural lakes and ponds. There were several other rocks which rose up through the trees.  All of them met the clear blue sky at the far end of the horizon. The wind which kissed the clear waters of the lakes blew so hard passing us that it felt like arrows flying close to our ears. We let the wind hug us as it desired while exploring the enchantment around us. The texture of the rock we stood on was very much different of what we had seen before in our lives. It testified it’s belonging to the pre historic era of the country.

Odd texture of the rock

Beauty up to the horizon

  We didn’t forget to bring some boiled "Kadala" with us for the journey. All of us sat here and there at the slope of the rock and started our mini picnic. Although the sun shone brightly, it’s heat was vanished by the cool wind which blew very hard. On top of the rock amused by the view of the ancient city spread all around us was the perfect spot to enjoy a bite of "Kadala". After everybody was stuffed up, there came the time for a photo shoot. Rocks on top of the others standing against the lovely background of green and blue, encouraged us all to give various poses for a lovely shot.

  Far away on top of an adjacent rock there was a small "Budugey" kind of building with white walls and a roof made of rock. With the help of the boys we climbed into the particular rock in order to explore it better. The creation was amazing. The walls of the "Budugey" were constructed in between the slopes of two nearly perpendicular rocks making the roof and floor be naturally created by the rocks. We took time to amuse ourselves by the wonders of our ancestors and also to absorb the environmental beauty into our minds. It felt that the surroundings had this amazing ability to fill one’s mind with peace and serenity.

Sthupa with rock roof

Stone steps

Rocky surroundings

  We descended the stone stairs and with the lead of Randika walked through a foot path towards a different side of the area. Small bushes and trees were on either side of the path. After walking for several minutes we came to an opening where a large pond lay before us. “This is said to be the country’s longest naturally made pond,” explained Randika and his brother. We had to agree to that statement after we completely approached the zone. It was a rocky area and a rock was naturally carved creating a pond which extended so far that we could not see it’s end. It was like we had entered another dimension. The water of the pond was calm and still. Even the presence of water made our bodies fresh. Silence dominated the environment. Time by time the leaves of the very few trees which were grown near the pond, made a tranquil sound when the wind softly blew. A bird or two gave a small chirp. Beyond the rocks we could see more tree tops against the clear blue sky. We felt the water in our feet and faces and were refreshed. Then we started walking again upwards through a path made by stones kept in a way simulating a staircase. It led to the top of the rock near the pond. We walked along the rock for some time, and on our way we could see the pond beneath us. Far away on top of another rock we could see a "Sthupa". A few climb ups and downs and we were facing the small but ancient monument. Unfortunately some of it’s parts were damaged due to treasure hunters.

The natural pond

The small Sthupa

The small Sthupa

Climbing down

  After worshiping it, we started our journey back downwards. On the way we stopped by the pond to have a little rest and to feel the cool water again. Then we walked on the path and came back into the Paramakanda temple premises. Since another historical site waited for us to explore, we got onto the bikes and set course to Thonigala. It was about a 3km ride towards the Kurunagala – Puttalam road. As we reached Thonigala, in order to visit the stone inscription, we had to leave our bikes and walk on foot for some distance through a bushy path similar to the ones we walked on at Paramakanda. We came to a large water tank made by the ancient dynasty. At the distance we could see the Paramakanda rock where we were a few minutes ago. Passing the tank we had to walk upwards on a path led on rocks. The sun had heated the rock surface, thus we made sure to keep our feet on the grassy area. But such areas were lack at this part of the site. Our enthusiasm to see the inscription however made us move forward. There is a popular folklore which describes the name Thonigala, relating to the famous "King Vijaya" and "Kuweni". Legend states that, since "King Vijaya" had to marry a princess from India in order to reign his new found kingdom (Sri Lanka), a Madras princess was brought to the country. Thus "Kuweni" with her children were expelled from the palace. Mourned by this unfair treatment, "Kuweni" fled to her home area and cursed "Vijaya" from top of the rock which we were standing at the moment. The rock (gala) where she cursed or screamed (lathoni) was named as Lathonigala hence after passing through several generations the name was changed as Thonigala.

Thonigala rock

By the tank

  We finally reached the top of the rock where long stone inscriptions could be seen – the "Thonigala Sel Lipi". Two inscriptions lay carved in a vast area of the flat rock. Each inscription is said to be about 100 feet long and each letter about one feet in height and engraved about one inch deep in to the rock. Also it is said to be the largest rock inscription found in Sri Lanka. According to the translated inscription displayed at the site by the Archeological department, these inscriptions dated back to the first century BC to the period of King Mahachuli Mahathissa, who was a son of King Walagamba. They state about a grant of a lake, which probably was the one we had just passed by, and a village to a Buddhist Monastery by the name of "Achagirika Tissa Pabbata". This Monastery is believed to be the "Paramakanda Raja Maha Vihara", which we had visited previously. According to our thoughts and feelings, these inscriptions are a remarkable instance of the origin of the Sinhalese language. They also give evidence of the art of writing our ancestors had used thousands of years ago. From the place where the second inscription laid we could see the Paramakanda rock in the distance. We tried to imagine how this area could have been thousand years ago. If only these rocks could talk, they could have burst by revealing both wonderful and sad memories of whatever happened on them thousands and thousands of years ago. Even the wind blew like narrating their ancient stories of generations before us.

Thonigala stone inscription

Letters carved into the rock

  An iron fence was built around the inscription in order to protect it, but as we heard from the villagers later on, due to the excessive hot weather conditions and the heat of direct sun rays on it, the rock might be in a dangerous condition to be cracked. We spent some time exploring and started descending again. The tank was like calling us for a rest, thus we spent some time by the water. For the last time we looked back at the site which holds many stories of ancient legends and bid good bye. We walked back to the bikes and rode along to Randika’s home, where a fine lunch awaited.

Bio diversity

A few of the group